African Economics

I have been playing a cat and mouse game with the lovely, efficient, hardworking housekeepers here at the Kuriftu Bishoftu Resort. Each day I leave 20 Ethiopian Birr ($1 cdn) on the pillow, and each day they leave it on the bedside table. I asked my main man here, HR/Operations Manager Abebaw, about it. He said they don’t want to be fired for stealing. Tourism in Ethiopia is barely a thing yet, so the subtleties of tipping and other practices are not on the radar. So, I starting leaving a note on a napkin, “Thank you for doing a great job! ☺ “. Now they take it half the time.

I asked Abebaw yesterday about the small groups of Chinese men who stay at the resort every few days. They are obviously not on vacation. He said they are owners of nearby factories producing garments, shoes, flowers, food, beverages, cars, etc. They are here because the average Ethiopian labourer earns $1.25 per day and because there are no WCB folks bothering owners with working condition standards, workplace exposure to toxins, hours of work, and other dodgy conditions. I have a couple of friends who design and sell clothing in Canada whose products are manufactured in China, I assume because production is cheaper due to low Chinese labour costs mostly. How interesting that the Chinese do that here.

The housekeepers at the resort also make $1.25 per day, though that almost doubles for them with staff meals, transportation, a cut of service charges, and bonus top-ups. I had no idea I was leaving the equivalent of a day’s pay on my pillow.

Should we still support an Ethiopian tourism industry that pays such wages? As contrasting as it is to minimum wages across Canada, it is still a wage in a very poor country. The hope is in CESO’s catch-line “Stronger economies, better lives”. In fact, if you are doing the African-vacation thing from Canada, there is a good chance you will fly through Addis Ababa on your way to the lions and rhinos south of here. Why not stay a few days in a lovely, non-touristy place with lots to see and do?

Some Changes Comes Easy, and Some Do Not

The second week of an assignment is where the rubber hits the road and we begin to see some changes taking effect. 

Changing processes and procedures is relatively easy, but meaningful change takes time. This is particularly true when change involves culture – either a country’s culture or the work/company culture - so I never really expect to see too much of a difference while I am on site. Whether the changes are procedural or cultural, staff need to become first aware of the reasons for the change, then buy-in and want to do participate in the change. I have a couple of examples for you.

While touring the property with Executive Chef Wonde last week, I mentioned that the all-day, outdoor smoothie/juice station might increase its exposure if the wonderful, local, organic fruit was displayed on the bar, rather than only behind the bar. I quickly showed them what I meant. Each day since then, it has happened like clockwork. This is process/procedural change and is quick.

The daily breakfast buffets were a greater concern. Every day, the morning servers would hang out at the buffet assisting guests. And when I say assisting, I’m talking about taking guest plates from their hands and placing food on it for them, then carrying the plate to the guests’ tables, then returning to the buffet to help someone else. Meanwhile, there was zero table maintenance – no clearing, no additional coffee or other drinks offered, no friendly conversation ….. nada. No server ever came to my table, dirty plates be damned.

When I met with the dining room leaders, I explained that if I am a guest that is with them in the morning for 60 minutes, I spend 5 minutes at the buffet, and 55 minutes at my table. I asked them where the bulk of the service should be. They agreed that the tables needed maintenance, but that it was the “Kuriftu Resorts way” to give that level of service at the buffet itself. I am not sure if this culture-based aspect of service will change, but if it does, it likely will not be as quick or simple as fruit on a bar.

Blood, Sweat, and Blood

While I’m on assignment, I try to keep as normal a routine as possible that includes runs and workouts. Running in particular is always a great way to see the surrounding area and how the locals live. On my second day at Bishoftu, I did just that. 

About 5k into a 10k loop, running along a busy, colourful, sensory-intense streetscape, I stubbed a toe and bailed. It happens, but I cannot remember the last time it did. This street wasn’t exactly the Highline trail in Canmore, if you know what I mean.

Ethiopia has a long, long pedigree of famous distance and middle distance runners – Bekele,      Gebrselassie, Dibaba, Defar, and many more. As a sport, running is second only to soccer here.

That said, I haven’t seen anyone out for a run in these parts. So, as if a 6’2” blue-eyed, very white guy running along a street in deepest Ethiopia isn’t cause for some rubbernecking by the locals (and the smiley little kids, who all practice their English with me as I pass them), try doing it with a bleeding elbow and two knees.

Ah well ….. it’s funny now.